#1
Start with new rotors or cut the used rotors on a brake
finishing lathe using sharp bits and correct feed speeds. As always, best
results will be achieved by closely following the
set-up and maintenance instructions in the lathe
owners manual. (Note: We have found the
newer style GWR
"Round Lathe
Bits" produce consistent, lower RA finishes that
standard bits)
#2
Use the new, patented Flex-Hone
for Rotors on both friction
surfaces of the new or turned rotors, to create and O.E. style cross-hatch. (Note: An angle head,
electric drill is highly recommended as it's
speed is more constant and rotational torque is almost
eliminated). It only takes about 20 seconds to
"re-profile the surface" and create the perfect
bedding surface for your new pad. Simply move the spinning
tool across the surface (in and out motion) about five times and
then make one slow pass from inside to outside to make a final
symmetrical pattern. (Note: Contrary to popular
belief, laboratory
testing has determined sand paper or round discs do not
produce the proper rotor finish needed to control the burnish of
a new pad.)
#3
Thoroughly clean the friction
surfaces and hat area of the rotor with
GWR
Brake-Soap
and water solution... using a
hand scrub brush. It has been proven in the
laboratory that this helps to demagnetize and then remove imbedded micro fine steel particles
significantly better
than aerosol brake cleaners. When clean,
rinse completely with clean water and then air
dry.
#4
Spray a very light, even coat of the Silencer - Brake Conditioning
Treatment on both sides (friction surfaces) of the
rotor. Be sure to shake the can well to completely
disperse the solid particles into the synthetic carrier the
Silencer treatment uses, to deliver them to the rotor.
(Notes: You don't need a lot of this product to do the job
correctly, only a light single coating of the rotor is
necessary. Additionally, no drying time is required before assembly or
driving.)
WARNING: Several packaging companies have attempted to
copy or duplicate the OE Approved "Silencer-Brake
Conditioning Treatment" in recent years. What's most
interesting is... they all came to GWR and ask us to private
label the real Silencer for them first. Why? Because it
works, it is safe and they did not have the expertise to do it
themselves! Unfortunately for the driving public, when we quoted them prices they all
said "you are to expensive, we can make it for one to two
dollars a can!"
Well, you can make it for that if you leave out the real
synthetic components, the special high pressure oils, the
expensive moly, the specially shaped particulates, etc,
etc. What is worse, these companies are using petroleums for the
carrier. The problem is "Can you, the consumer or shop, afford to take a chance on
these un-approved and potentially dangerous brake products when
it comes to your own car or that of your customers?"
If you are in doubt about a product you are using or are
thinking of using, just check the ingredients listed on the
label of the can. If you find Mineral Spirits or Stoddard
Solvent listed, the product can "not" be used on brake
rotors without voiding the warrantee on a new set of pads.
You have our word, based on over 30 years in the business, none
of the copies are even close to our original Silencer product!
Neither do they share the national and international awards,
accolades, O.E.M. endorsements or safety level. If you have
been told any other brake conditioner is equal to or better than
Silencer... please call GWR. We would like to explain the
difference and show you why there are safety issues involved,
that will affect you. Thanks, GWR
#5
Coat caliper piston face (where pad back plate contact occurs), guide landing ears, caliper brackets, mounting bolt threads,
the rust free hat area at center of rotor (thoroughly clean before turning if any
rust is present) and any other metal to metal contact points with
Pastelub-2400 Ultra
Hi-Temp Synthetic Dry-film lubricant. (Note: Do not
use low temp greases (300º to 700º) or any type silicone for
this application as they will break down and additionally cause
contamination to friction surfaces.) As of January
1, 2002, we now recommend our new Ceramlub-2800 for all rubber
to metal caliper bushings or assemblies. This incredible
new lubricant is far superior to all silicone type lube products
commonly used on slide pins, etc.
#6 Assemble per recommended O.E.
procedures, then test drive the vehicle making about 20 to 30 ultra
light slow-downs and then 10 to 20 full stops from 30 mph.
Be sure to allow about 1
to 2 minutes of cool down time between each
stop, to allow rotors and pad to self-adjust.
(No panic stops for at least 300 miles)
This light and then heavier stopping procedure, properly
burnishes the Silencer's micro-fine particles into the friction
surfaces and adjusts (conditions) the burnish process. The goal
is to slow down the burnish and control the pressures and
temperatures the new pad is exposed to for the longest period of
time. The hotter and harder a pad is pushed during it break in
period (post cure) the harder it becomes and therefore the worse
the performance. There are several measurements in the industry,
including FEI (Friction Energy Index), Coefficient of Friction,
BEEP, Torque, etc., and by using the above five steps you will
improve them up to 8%.
SPECIALS!
GET ALL THE ABOVE COMPONENTS IN ONE KIT....
GWR
Starter Kits
